In astonishingly general terms, there are 3 basic plans used. You need to be agile enough to switch tactics instantly as the action of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves building a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as thick as you are able to achieve, to lock in the opponent’s pieces that are located on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most acceptable course of action at the begining of the game. You can assemble the wall anyplace inbetween your eleven-point and your 2-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the match continues.
The Blitz
This consists of locking your home board as fast as as you can while keeping your competitor on the bar. i.e., if your opposer rolls an early 2 and moves one piece from your 1-point to your three-point and you then roll a 5-5, you will be able to play six/one six/one 8/3 8/3. Your opponent is now in serious dire straits taking into account that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have closed half your home board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have 2 or more pieces in your competitor’s home board. (An anchor is a position filled by at least two of your checkers.) It needs to be played when you are extremely behind as this plan greatly improves your chances. The strongest locations for anchors are near your opponent’s smaller points and either on adjacent points or with a single point in between. Timing is critical for a competent backgame: besides, there is no reason having two nice anchors and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to dismantle this straight away, while your opposer is getting their checkers home, taking into account that you don’t have other extra pieces to move! In this situation, it’s more tolerable to have checkers on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position until your competitor gives you an opportunity to hit, so it may be a great idea to try and get your opposer to hit them in this situation!